En route to the Guge Kingdom

From the journal (expletives not deleted):

Man! Was it cold last night!

Finally got to use the sleeping bag as a bag. Socks, long thermals - top and bottom, beanie, gloves, silk liner, bag - and I was still cold early in the morning. Ice heavy on the tents in the pre-dawn. My handwriting's different 'coz I've still got gloves on.

Clear sunshine!

From the journal (expletives not deleted):

The sky is clear. The wind dropped and it's really cold.

I woke in the dark this morning with my left knee killing me, my right knee complaining, and my entire body coated with tent condensation, which had the effect of making me feel muddy all over.

Last wash (except essentials):

Monday June 5 back at Kermi's hot springs.

Six goat trains cross the bridge before tea at 6.30am.

Today we enter Tibet.

Leaving at 8.00.

Another killer day

From the journal - (expletives not deleted):

We're camped by the Karnali again. Tibet is on the other side of the river. Rose at five this morning - bit warmer than at night. Woke up for a leak last night - saw two mountain massifs glowing in the starlight - another awesome sight! Clouded in and hiding again this morning though. Jagat Man is anxious to move - we take the trail up toward the pass. Breathing is OK, but I don't have the energy or breath to converse while moving. Heart rate sits about 135bpm for hours and hours on end - only drops back when we pause. With every breath, stuff is coming up for me - I keep harking back to yesterday's fears...

Cyril and the Kermi Girls

The Kermi hot springs were a welcome chance to really bathe after what had seemed an eternity of bowl and flannel washes.

Some young ladies were also bathing up there. Cyril had introduced himself as he passed by while searching for the hottest water.

It was quite a surprise when they showed up at our camp some time later.

We had no common tongue.

It was all in the eyes...