Leptis Magna, Libya

Catchup Postage: Leptis Magna, Libya

Leptis Magna in the blue spring morning. Our flash visit starts here at the Arch of Septimius Severus on the Via Trionfale which runs down to the harbour on the Mediterranean.

Lucius "Lucky" Septi was Leptis Magna's most famous native son, rising to become the Empire's ruler in 193. He liked to build arches. His good pal Antoninus "Antsy" Pius liked to build baths - you might remember our pictures of the ones he erected in Carthage. Lucky and Antsy were one of history's famous teams and no wonder!

Moving right along, we come to LM's mall and lemme tellya - I'm bummed they don't build 'em like this anymore! I could hang in this kind of mall for aaages. Needless to say, we don't have the time to spend soaking up the sheer magnificence, imagining how absolutely incredible these markets must have been when roofed and pristine. Hell of a bunch of shops, no?

We take a quick stroll through the Forum - which is nicely placed down by the seaside - before whizzing off to take in the action at the theatre. Nothing's playing but the view and ambience are astounding.

As at Dougga, there's hardly anybody here and it's wonderful not to have to penetrate milling crowds to appreciate the wonder. Bit of a bummer for ticket sales though. Doesn't matter - the show rolls relentlessly on.

All too soon it's back to the truck for the transfer to the amphitheatre and hippodrome, which lie at some distance to the east, beyond the dunes which conceal yet more of this sprawling city.

On the way we traverse the red-light district. There's no longer spruikers touting the wares, but the remaining advertising signs leave no doubt about the marvels formerly available here for a few denarius - or perhaps antoninianus - who knows?

The hippodrome is a huge beachside racetrack that lies quiet behind the dunes and is easily discernible from the hills above. I climb down to hunt chariot tracks. There's a mighty arch built into the cliffside by the hippodrome by which I enter a yawning processional road leading between hewn rock walls which cut deeply back into the hills. The road turns ninety degrees to the left and enters a long tunnel big enough to admit piggybacking elephants.

The amphitheatre is a Colosseum sunk in the ground! Emerging from the tunnel, I enter to the roar of the crowd and turn to salute Caesar high above.

Oh wait... It's just the wind and Amber giving me the thumbs up from the heights.

I just remembered: In our hasty exit from the main part of the city, we did have time to pause briefly and admire a few more details. On the left: Another part of the market. Can you imagine getting your fruit, veg 'n' grains from a shop like this? On the right is a detail of Lucky's arch. He did good didn't he?

Thanks the gods that those damn Vandals never made it this far!

Meanwhile, back at the Colosseum, I've discovered the maze of subterranean passages that encircle the edifice below the bleachers. It's too cool for words! There are gladiator waiting rooms, animal cages and a long passage heading deeper back into the hills that ends in an unexcavated collapse. I'm in heaven - there's no one here to ground my flights of fancy and I'm like a kid exploring this subterranean labyrinth.

I eventually emerge into the sunlight of the upper levels of the amphitheatre to find even Mau has left. I can hear the lions roaring! No, dammit. It's Ader shouting at me that everyone else is back on the truck and we're late leaving. I wish those lions were here. I'd toss 'em whoever wrote this itinerary!