Written by Doug
Saturday, 12 April 2008
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Catchup Postage: Cairo and Mount Sinai
Right now we're in Dahab, Egypt, shortly to depart for the head of the Gulf of Aqaba for our ferry crossing to Jordan tomorrow. We've been here for four days and prior to that I had three days in Cairo. Amber, Margrete and Jennifer, having done the Egypt sights on earlier journeys, elected to head straight to Dahab for some beachside R&R while George and Sue organised our Azerbaijani visas in Cairo. I'd thought to use the time to go down to Karnak and Luxor, but my experience among the swarming crowds of tourists in Cairo had me thinking that trip would be better done in the off season. I decided to skip Luxor and Karnak to have a little downtime and (hopefully) catch up on posts as promised.
Today is Day 24. We've walked the ruins of Leptis Magna, Cyrene and Apollonia, visted the desert war graves and battlefields of Tobruk and El Alamein. I've wandered among the fabled pyramids of Giza and the madness of Cairo and been dumbfounded by the treasures of Tutankhamun's tomb. We've driven under loaded container ships plying the Suez Canal and climbed Mt Sinai in the dark to witness the sunrise over the land of Moses, wandered Sinai's desert, explored the Coloured and White Canyons and watched the sky turn indigo over the hills of Saudia Arabia.
But I've only posted to Tripoli.
Dammit! I'm so printed page - not quick enough by half for this high-speed, constant deadline, new-content-required medium.
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 21 September 2010 |
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Written by Doug
Sunday, 06 April 2008
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Catchup Postage: Ghadames to Tripoli
Hmm. Not much opportunity to get online these days. Wonder what it's going to be like in Central Asia? We may well disappear!
Now where were we? Oh yeah...
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 21 September 2010 |
Written by Doug
Sunday, 06 April 2008
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Catchup Postage: Ghadames
I'm surprised by the sudden appearance in my viewfinder of a man pushing a bicycle through the covered alleys of Ghadames' old town. I'm concerned that I've taken his picture without asking, but my expression of surprise and apology apparently confuses him, leading him to think I'm unhappy he's walked into my shot. We say "sorry" simultaneously as he dissolves into the blinding outdoor light.
I lose track of time, unable to resist shouldering through random doors that loom in the dark passages of yet another extraordinary ancient city. The oasis of Ghadames is a Tuareg Berber town and for thousands of years was a major base for trans-Saharan trade. The Romans were here too of course, occasionally manning the garrisons at the edges of their far-flung empire.
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Last Updated on Monday, 20 September 2010 |
Written by Doug
Saturday, 05 April 2008
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Catchup Postage: Nalut
The wind has kept us company and threatened us with rain since breakfast. As we negotiate the switchbacks below the redoubt of Nalut's abandoned qasr, the gain in altitude exposes us to the full intensity of the wind's chilling embrace.
Amber is really ill now, having slept feverishly last night and waking weak and with a burning throat. She elects to shelter in the warmth of the bus, rather than accompany us as we file out to explore these wind-scoured ruins.
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Last Updated on Monday, 20 September 2010 |
Written by Doug
Friday, 04 April 2008
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Catchup Postage: Skywalking to Matmata
Another day, another planet - this time the one that featured in Star Wars!
Tozeur lies on the northern shore of the Chott El Jerid, which at 7000 square kilometres is the Sahara's largest salt pan. The morning is a blue void above the widening sere expanse of the lake as we rumble across the the causeway toward the troglodyte town of Matmata.
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Last Updated on Monday, 20 September 2010 |
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