Review & Tips: Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Please be aware that these posts don't provide comprehensive, guide book level information. We're not claiming a lack of bias either ;) These overviews are simply a record of our experience which we post in the hope that they may occasionally provide more up to date, specific or detailed information than you've been able to find elsewhere...

The Cameron Highlands are so soothing that we could have stayed a lot longer than we did. For those of us from harsher climes and flatter lands, it was like a storybook land made real. There are 3 "main" towns, Brinchang (the largest), Tanah Rata (south) and Ringlet (north). The following info applies mostly to Tanah Rata.

Getting There:

Buses from Ipoh (jumping off point) to Brinchang/Tanah Rata take 2 hours and cost 12RM. One of the services requires a bus change – make sure the service you take is an express bus that will complete the journey. We caught a minibus from Taman Negara – the only other option from Kuala Tahan is to travel back to Jerantut, catch the train north again to Gua Musang and catch the local bus to Tanah Rata from there. That would be so ludicrously roundabout that you might as well go back to KL and catch the 3.5 hour bus from there direct to the Cameron Highlands.

Accommodation:

Budget tourists generally head to Tanah Rata but some of the larger resorts are located near other towns. All of the following are in Tanah Rata.

Hillview Inn – beautiful little rooms ranging from 66RM – 88RM including hot water shower and private balconies. This place is lovely though the "cafe" is extremely basic and expensive (you won't need it). Very neat, lots of fun, everyone there looked happy, great common areas, nice building, nice views. Beds are very comfortable and the linen was top quality. Not as big as it looks. Book ahead at busy times. There are some smaller rooms with shared bathrooms but they were all booked out at the time. They can even set you up with an apartment if you are looking for something longer term, or for the family.

Father's Guest House – lacking the hot water (necessary, it's pretty cool/cold at times), beautiful grounds but too far out of town for a quick snack. I would much prefer to stay in any of the places close to town.

Behind Hillview was Jurina, another sweet looking place with friendly owners and pretty flower gardens. These hotels have great locations, close to town and the beginning of the walking trails, but on a quiet private road. Similar prices. Check here if Hillview is booked out.

In town there are several very cheap guesthouses but I would avoid them like the plague if you are a light sleeper. The late-night karaoke nearby has to be heard to be believed. I doubt I would have gotten a wink of sleep. On the other hand, everything is right underneath you in the shophouses!

Eating & Drinking:

Food heaven, no kidding. Indian, Chinese and Western options are abundant. Tanah Rata is pretty much ALL food. For 24 hour banana leaf luxury you cannot go past Bunga Suria, packed with locals at all hours but always speedy at producing delicious meals to stuff yourself with. It cannot be exaggerated how good this place is. I went through a stage of not sleeping very well, then sleeping through breakfast. Doug would bring me back little packages of cheese roti and dahl from Suria that are not exactly a healthy start to the day but taste so delicious I'm all mouth watery just thinking about it. Cheap, cheap cool. Down the far southern end of the town opposite the convent school hill, (same side of the road as the Maybank) you'll spot the outdoor tables before the sign. Tons of options on the menu, enough to eat something different 3 times a day for a week. Never cost more than 21RM for meals, drinks and deserts that left us both with enormous bellies.

For an even friendlier Nepali reception try Brinchang Indian Restaurant – wandering on the western side of the main road you can't miss it. They won't let you, because you'll be positively enchanted by the grins they use to guide you to your seat for a quick snack and an outrageously good mango lassie.

Makes a change from Suria and is just as nice and cheap.

We didn't stop for Chinese (not as many vegetarian options) but every night the sidewalks were heaving with clients at the southern end of the main street where the chinese restaurants are located. I assume it's gotta be good, or at least a thousand people in Tanah Rata have terrible taste :p

There's a rather exotic western restaurant, prices are equally exotic, but I'm pretty sure I even saw ostrich egg on the menu. There were quite a few people there and the setting was nice. I was too busy chowing down on cheap Indian meals to bother.

The Traveller's Bar is on the corner next to Bunga Suria. There was always someone in there but it seemed very very quiet on the whole. Strange, because by Malaysian standards they were offering pretty cheap cocktails. Maybe it goes off later at night, but I fear it won't be around for long unless it finds more patrons. Shame, because it's a beautiful little bar and they seem eager to please.

If you want to go to the biggest, loudest party in town, follow the noise to the karaoke bar any time before 1am. No matter where you are staying, you'll know where it is ;)

Facilities:

Maybank is on the eastern side of Tanah Rata main street, look for the yellow and black exterior. The guesthouses between Bunga Suria and Maybank (see above) offer cheap internet, the best of which is at the gaming palace "Excellent Victory Online", not to be confused with the other EVO :p Very good speeds and excellent machines, filled with Chinese students playing Starcraft. Cost around 3RM/hour and worth it. I loved having a nice flat LCD screen and up to date browser for the first time in months. The travel information centre can be found opposite the town park on the southern side street up a small hill. Where restaurants aren't lining the main street travel agents are.

Activities:

You would be well advised to buy a map showing the walking trails and to ask locals for advice. The trail heads can be difficult to find on your own. Always walk in pairs if possible (it's easy to get lost) and take plenty of water or else take a guide. I stress that hiking in Cameron Highlands can be a tricky (though incredibly rewarding) adventure. We purchased a map from an internet cafe called the Cameron Highlands Tourist Map. Please do NOT trust this map with your life. If possible find a better map or ask a local to draw you one. To date, Cameron Highlands hiking was the most enjoyable we've done in Asia but it should be taken somewhat seriously. It rains often in the afternoons so unless you are not averse to hiking soaked, take a raincoat. Mostly the trails are wide, well-marked and easy to walk on, but occasionally they become ludicrously hard to negotiate. Do not miss trail 14 from Tanah Rata town to the flower nurseries and up the road past the Cameron Valley Tea House. The views could bring a grown man to tears. Thankfully, the cool mountain air and the good paths make long walks a delight.

There are tours that take in the bazillions of horticulture-based tourist attractions in the Cameron Highlands. Half day and full day tours starting at RM30 sometimes take in an Orang Asli village and waterfall, which we heard was a really terrific time. Otherwise a map and a car or a strong pair of legs and a heartbeat will take you there, as will the local highlands buses.

Shopping note: Whatever you do, don't miss Yung Seng souvenir shop on the main road in Tanah Rata. I know I sound crazy, I hate souvenirs, but seriously, these are beautiful, quality handicrafts and the most amazing collection of animist masks and figures I have ever seen. The staff are knowledgeable and happy to tell you all about the collection and how the figures are made by the Orang Asli tribes. This is the best souvenir store I have ever seen. I would really call it an art gallery. We didn't buy anything (the stuff is pricey) but I won't forget it in a hurry. The shop also smells fantastic from all the different kinds of mangrove woods used to carve the masks.

Environment:

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. Hard to believe we were still in Malaysia. Cottage flowers, everything bursting with life, fresh, cool, beautiful mist or clear blue depending on time of day. Amazing ferns and epiphytes. Everything I was hoping for from Taman Negara without the sweat, mud, tears and leeches. The town is spotless and charming. A+++

Impressions:

Everyone can probably tell what I think of Cameron Highlands. Unmissable. Go there. Drink tea, wander through the wonderland, stuff your face. Very high on my list of favourites.